M'nkhani ya 1957 mu Mythology, wafilosofi wachifalansa komanso wotsutsa zolembalemba Roland Barthes adatcha tchipisi ta mbatata (la frite) "chokonda dziko" komanso "chizindikiro cha Chifalansa."
Mbatata idatenga gawo lalikulu m'mbiri ya Ireland. “Njala ya mbatata” chapakati pa zaka za m’ma XNUMX inachepetsa chiwerengero cha anthu m’dzikoli ndi theka m’zaka zingapo.
Masiku ano, opanga mbatata padziko lonse lapansi ndi China, India, Russia ndi Ukraine. Chikhalidwe ichi ndi chofunikira kwa mayiko onse omwe atchulidwa, koma palibe amene anganene kuti ndi mbadwa.
Mbatata yonyozekayi inkawetedwa ku South America Andes pafupifupi zaka 8000 zapitazo ndipo sanadziwitsidwe ku Ulaya mpaka pakati pa zaka za m'ma 16, kuchokera komwe inafalikira kumadzulo ndi kumpoto, kubwerera ku America ndi kupitirira.
“Ngakhale kuti mbatatayi inachokera kumapiri a Andes, ndi chakudya chimene chikuyenda bwino padziko lonse,” anatero pulofesa wina wa kadyedwe kabwino, Rebecca Earl. Pulofesa Earle akufotokoza njira ya mbatata kuzungulira dziko lapansi m’buku lake lakuti Nutrition of the People: The Politics of the Potato. Iwo analemba kuti: “ Mbatata imamera pafupifupi kulikonse padziko lapansi, ndipo pafupifupi kulikonse anthu amaiona kuti ndi imodzi mwa zakudya ‘zawo’.”
Rebecca Earl amatcha mbatata "osamukira bwino kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi." Alimi a Idaho ndi anthu aku Italy okonda gnocchi adzatenga mbatata monga Peruvia iliyonse, chifukwa mbiri ya chikhalidwechi si mbiri ya dziko kapena dera, komanso nkhani ya momwe anthu asinthira ubale wawo ndi nthaka ndi chakudya m'mibadwo ingapo. ....
Mbatata ndi mbewu yachinayi yofunika kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi pambuyo pa mpunga, tirigu ndi chimanga, ndi mbewu yoyamba yopanda phala. Kodi chubu ya ku Andes ikanagonjetsa bwanji dziko m'zaka mazana ochepa chabe?
Kodi nchiyani chinapangitsa mbatata kukhala yokongola kwa anthu osiyanasiyana? Choyamba, zake zosayerekezeka zakudya mtengo. Chofunikanso chinali kulima kosavuta (poyerekeza ndi mbewu zina), komanso kulima (mbatata inali "kubisala" mobisa kwa okhometsa msonkho ndi magulu ankhondo a adani).
Malo abwino oyambira kuphunzira mbiri yakale ndi International Potato Center (IPC), malo ofufuza omwe amafufuza ndikulimbikitsa chilichonse chokhudzana ndi mbatata. Ili kudera louma la likulu la dziko la Peru, Lima, ili ndi mitundu yambiri ya mbatata zochokera kudera lonselo.
Rene Gomez, woyang'anira wamkulu ku IPC's Genbank, akuti mbatatayi idalimidwa ku Andes, pafupi ndi Nyanja ya Titicaca, pafupifupi 1000 km kumwera chakum'mawa kwa Lima. Pambuyo pakuweta, mbatata yoyambilira idafalikira ku Cordillera ndipo idakhala chakudya chofunikira kwa anthu ammudzi, kuphatikiza ma Incas, makamaka ngati chakudya chambiri chotchedwa chugno, mbatata yowumitsidwa yomwe imatha zaka kapena zaka zambiri.
Kuchokera ku America
Mu 1532, nkhondo ya ku Spain inathetsa Incas, koma osati kulima mbatata. Oukirawo ananyamula ma tubers kudutsa nyanja ya Atlantic, komanso mbewu zina monga tomato, mapeyala ndi chimanga. Akatswiri a mbiri yakale adatcha ichi Great Colombian Exchange. Kwa nthawi yoyamba m'mbiri, mbatata idapita kunja kwa America.
Mitundu yoyambirira ya Andes idavutika kuti igwirizane ndi momwe Spain ndi maiko ena aku Europe. M'chigawo cha equatorial, komwe mbatata zidayamba kulimidwa, kutalika kwa tsiku kumakhala kosasintha chaka chonse.
Monga momwe katswiri wokhulupirira za chisinthiko Hernan a Burbano Roa amanenera, masiku a chilimwe a ku Ulaya a nthawi yachilimwe ankasokoneza zomera za mbatata, ndipo ma tubers sankamera m'miyezi yofunda; m’malo mwake, zinamera m’nyengo yachisanu, ndipo chisanu chinawalepheretsa kukhala ndi moyo. Zaka makumi oyambirira akufika ku Old Continent sizinaphule kanthu.
Koma kenako (m’zaka za m’ma 80 m’zaka za m’ma 16) mbatatayi inapeza malo abwinoko ku Ireland, kumene nyengo yophukira yozizira koma yopanda chisanu inapereka mpata woti zipse. Kwa zaka zana za ntchito, alimi apanga mitundu yawoyawo, yomwe yawonetsa zotsatira zabwino.
Tuber wokongola
Anthu a m’mudziwu ankakonda kwambiri mbatata chifukwa amakolola kwambiri pa hekitala imodzi. Ku Ireland, makamaka, alimi ankakonda kukhala eni eni a malo omwe anali kulima, ndipo mtengo wa lendi unakwera pang’onopang’ono. Motero, anakakamizika kupanga chakudya chochuluka monga momwe akanathera m’dera laling’ono kwambiri. “Palibe mbewu yotulutsa chakudya chochuluka pa ekala imodzi, yofunikira kulimidwa mocheperapo, kapena yosungidwa mosavuta monga mbatata,” analemba motero katswiri wa zachikhalidwe cha anthu James Lange m’buku lake lakuti Observer’s Notes on Potatoes.
Mbatata imakhala ndi pafupifupi mavitamini ndi michere yonse yofunikira kuphatikiza mavitamini A ndi D, zomwe zimawapangitsa kukhala osayerekezeka ndi zomwe zimachirikiza moyo. Onjezani mkaka wina, womwe umapereka mavitamini awiri omwe akusowa, ndipo mumakhala ndi zakudya zabwino zaumunthu.
Kwa anthu opanda malo okhala m’zaka za m’ma XNUMX ndi XNUMX ku Ireland, ekala imodzi ya malo a mbatata ndi ng’ombe imodzi ya ndalama zinali zokwanira kudyetsa banja lalikulu la anthu asanu ndi mmodzi kapena asanu ndi atatu. Palibe gulu limodzi lomwe lingathe kuchita izi. Umu ndi momwe kunayambira ukapolo wazaka zambiri wa alimi aku Ireland ndi Chingerezi ndi mbatata.
Kuchokera ku British Isles, mbatata inafalikira kumpoto kwa Ulaya. Malinga ndi Lang, pofika 1650, chikhalidwecho chinakula m'mayiko otsika (Belgium, Netherlands, Luxembourg), ndi 1740 - ku Germany, Prussia ndi Poland, ndi 1840 - ku Russia. Mbatata idakula pambuyo posankhidwa ndi alimi kuti azisefa mitundu yomwe siinagwirizane ndi nyengo zakumaloko.
Anthu okhala m'zigwa za ku Europe zomwe zawonongeka ndi nkhondo adapeza mwachangu mwayi wina wolima mbatata: ndizovuta kwambiri kukhoma msonkho komanso zosatheka kuzinyamula panthawi yakuukira mwachangu. “Ngati muli ndi munda wa tirigu, simungaubise,” akufotokoza motero Earl. - Okhometsa misonkho amatha kuyerekeza kukula kwa malowo ndikubwerera nthawi yokolola. Koma ma tubers amabisika mobisa ndipo mutha kukumba imodzi ndi imodzi ngati pakufunika. "
Lang analemba m’buku lake kuti: “Kukolola pang’ono kumeneku kunabisa zokolola kwa okhometsa msonkho ndiponso kutetezera chakudya cha anthu wamba m’nthaŵi yankhondo. - Asilikali achiwembu adasakaza mbewu ndikufunkha mosungiramo tirigu. Sanayime kawirikawiri kukumba ekala imodzi ya mbatata. "
Akuluakulu a panthaŵiyo anazindikira mfundo imeneyi. Mfumu Frederick Wamkulu wa ku Prussia adalamula boma lake kuti lipereke malangizo a momwe angabzalitsire mbatata, akuyembekeza kuti alimi adzalandira chakudya ngati adani atalowa m'dzikoli mu 1740 Austrian Succession War. Maulamuliro enanso adatsatira zomwezo, ndipo pofika nthawi ya Nkhondo za Napoleon chakumayambiriro kwa zaka za m’ma 1800, mbatata inali itasanduka nkhokwe ya chakudya ku Ulaya, malinga ndi lipoti la United Nations Food and Agriculture Association (FAO).
M’chenicheni, ma tubers anali mbewu yamtengo wapatali kwambiri panthaŵi ya nkhondoyo mwakuti “nkhondo iliyonse yankhondo m’nthaka ya ku Ulaya pambuyo pa 1560 inachititsa kuti madera olimidwawo achuluke, mpaka kufika pa Nkhondo Yadziko II,” analemba motero wolemba mbiri William McNeil. nkhani yake, Monga Mbatata inasintha mbiri ya dziko "(1999).
Zakudya ndi zakudya
Kwa zaka mazana angapo, mbatata zalowa mu chuma cha ku Europe ndi padziko lonse lapansi ngati mbewu yofunika kwambiri. Kwa zaka zambiri, akatswiri odziwa za kadyedwe kake amanena kuti kupambana kumeneku kunachititsa kuti anthu anzeru amene anali ndi zolinga zabwino anyengerera anthu osamala kuti alandire mbatata. Koma Rebecca Earl amakayikira. Anali alimi omwe adasinthira mbatata kuti zigwirizane ndi mikhalidwe yaku Europe, akutsutsa, kotero kuti sanafunikire kukhutiritsidwa. Akuluakulu sanapeze chikhalidwe chatsopano, m'malo mwake, amvetsetsa zatsopano za chakudya chopatsa thanzi. M'malo moyika "zakudya zapamwamba" pakati pazakudya zaku Europe, adazindikira kuti zakudya zili ndi gawo lofunikira kwambiri ndipo adayang'ana pozungulira mbewu zomwe zingakwaniritse cholinga chawo. Tuber wonyozeka anali kale pamenepo.